Just got back from Alaska, one of the most magical places on this earth. Back in the day (years ago), my family had always half-joked about spending Jordan’s 30th birthday in Alaska, taking a cruise of some sort, exploring the Last Frontier. Then lo and behold, Jordan landed a job at one of the lodges in Denali National Park for the summer season, and plans fell into line for the family to gather for the big 3-0. Mom and I arrived on a Thursday, Aaron and Stephenie the next day, and the five of us spent a glorious week hanging out and soaking in that fresh, fresh, fresh Alaskan air.
I’m blessed and thankful we were able to embrace so much of the outdoors; we barely spent any time inside our room (though the Bluffs Hotel was certainly cozy and accommodating, with a breathtaking view from our balcony). On Jordan’s birthday, after a breakfast at the Salmon Bake, we hiked Savage River, winding in and out of crevices in the mountains, looking at snowcapped peaks and down at the remnants of glaciers, avalanches, raging waters. The next day we took a guided bus tour 2/3 deep into the park, and saw tons of wildlife – the driver, Craig, told us we should pause and be thankful that we saw more in 6.5 hours than many people see during their entire stay in Denali: Dall sheep, golden eagles, caribou, a moose, six brown bears (one cub was climbing a tree while its HUGE grizzly mama grazed nearby), and….a lynx! I love that a lynx ran out in front of the bus, then paused on the side of the road and looked up at us with its deceivingly cute eyes. Rarely do we experience a moment and understand its preciousness in the same breath, but this was one of those moments, watching that lynx dash in front of us on its strong haunches, the way it turned and blinked at us so up close. I was in awe. On a more tame note, I adored all the sled-pullin' dogs; Mom and I went to the "Dog Demo," where the rangers educate you about the history of sled dogs in Alaska, do a demonstration run for you, let you stand on the sled, etc. Fin was my favorite, as was Willow. But all 32 dogs were friendly and loving and cute as buttons. It was fascinating to hear how snowmobiles are banned in the park during the winter, as they aren't as reliable as the dogs. Now perhaps most adventurous of all,the five of us went….whitewater rafting! What a hoot! There we were in chilly weather, slapping on wet suits (Mom too!), and then getting our mini-tutorials about never letting go of the T-grip on our paddles, how we’d only survive for so long in the water, if one of us falls out the others should do this, etc. We were all like, “Ummm….” But I was impressed with all of us, especially Mom, for taking the 11-mile trip down the river, which had several Class 3 and Class 4 rapids. I was in the front of the raft on the right, and definitely got hit the most by the silty, cold water! It took several hours of warming up (and drinking beer and eating pizza at Panorama, a pub about 30 minutes down the road from Glitter Gulch, the “downtown” of Denali).
Maybe more than anything, I’m most impressed with all the kind, genuine, fun people we met. Jordan has made some great friends and acquaintances, and all of them were so accommodating, generous, and sweet; and they all love Jordan so much. Everywhere we went, people were saying “hi” and smiling and stopping us to chat and get to know us. He’s met quite the crew at this “adult summer camp” (Jordan’s terminology). Some of my favorite moments were hanging out in Jordan’s room with his roommates and friends; sitting in the Overlook Bar inside the Crow’s Nest and drinking beer while chatting with everyone; eating midnight tacos; riding down the hill from the Grande Lodge on the back of the cart at midnight with it still sorta light out, slipping and sliding in the mud, ready to bounce off but laughing the entire time; having those random conversations at the workers’ cabins that were nestled on the hills amongst the lodges. (And yes, for all you
Dirty Dancing fans out there, the first thing I said to his friends when I met them was, “I carried a watermelon.”) On our last night, we went to the Cabin Nite Dinner Theater, where the performers enacted the history of Alaska through song, dance, and audience participation (i.e. getting two older fellers to enact a famous gun duel and have one of them fall “dead” in between two dining tables). The food was delicious – huge platters of meats and veggies and sides, our “garbage can” these metal buckets where we scraped everything we didn’t want from leftovers to napkins. And I loved (and am happy I didn’t get picked) that the men and women came over and placed big smack-a-roo kisses on anyone for a buck; you just raised a dollar bill over their head and the ladies or guys would plant one on their cheek; Jordan got three kisses (one gal, two guys) and you could tell he loved it, even though he turned a bright, burning red.
Mom and I headed back to Anchorage to catch our flight – on the comfiest train on the planet, I might add. We drank Moose Kisses, ate in the dining car with a pleasant couple from Texas, and stared out the clear ceiling and walls of our dome car at all the lush wildlife, trestles, mountains, and rivers. I also loved standing outside between the two cars and letting the wind whip through my hair and onto my face. Jordan, Aaron, and Stephenie had a chance to shimmy up to Fairbanks (stopping along the way at, um, a pub called Skinny Dick’s Halfway Inn), go to the Ice Hotel, and partake of the hot springs. Oh, and they also saw a beaver chow down on a tree on the Horseshoe Trail; they happened by right as the tree toppled over. I have to admit I’m jealous I wasn’t part of that experience. Then again, I’ve never really been into beavers….
So many feelings flooded through me during the vacation. Taking in Alaska’s vastness made me feel small but infinite, a tiny, tiny speck, but one that is working with all the other specks/spokes to turn the wheels of the universe. I can’t quite describe it, but I’d say I felt close to the start of stillness. Those stolen moments – the walk by myself that one day, sitting in the Bear Creek café and reading Jim Lynch’s
The Highest Tide, looking out at the rainbow from the balcony – drew me in to silence in a purer form. The spectrum of emotions ebbed and flowed through me constantly, but all for the greater good – helping knot a stronger, steadier, vaster sense of Self.
p.s. And the Alaskan men are total hotties. Those beards, the overalls, the big aww-shucks grins. Consider me a fan(tasy).
